Day 49: Turkeys don't fly... Headwinds in Turkey
Wednesday August 14 - Day 49 - 40miles - 1949miles
After our 6.30am alarm went off, we went to get breakfast. We rapidly discovered that the "Breakfast Lounge" int he Saray Hotel was at the top of the hotel, so we had to climb three more floors of stairs to get ours. We were the first there and the bread hadn't arrived yet, so we ate cheese, tomatoes, olives and cucumbers all washed down with the ubiquitous cay (pronounced chai - turkish tea). After the grumbling about the stairs, the views were spectacular over the city and mosques. The bread finally arrived and we had some bread and honey to finish off our morning meal.
We loaded up and wheeled the bikes out into the hustle and bustle of a Turkish city. It wasn't too bad as long as you were vigilant of the chaos all around you! We stopped at a small shop to refill water bottles and were surprised for the first time in a long time to see two refrigerators completely filled with non-alcoholic beverages! We have finally reached a country where beer is more expensive than water! Amazing the things you get used to.
We paralleled the main road until we were forced onto it and we went down Route D100 for a few miles southwards until the turnoff for the D020 towards Kirklareli. During those few miles we saw two Burger Kings and a Dominos Pizza......Bulgaria we miss you already!
The road narrowed after the turnoff and soon started climbing and descending. While researching routes into Istanbul on a bike, this road was described as "undulating"...we would put it in slightly stronger terms - like morale crushingly hilly. Especially when you have a 15mph headwind nearly all day. You would go down a hill that was just steep enough so that gravity would overcome the wind forces and pick up a little speed. At the bottom, however the flat part before the climb started would be just long enough to suck the momentum from you before you were slowed to a crawl by the incline on the other side. Once that incline had been crested you could see three more of them from the summit waiting for you.
Again this was exacerbated by the wind. This road wouldn't have been nearly so bad if we didn't have that to contend with. However it still would have been a tough section of road.
We crossed the new motorway to Istanbul and were really tempted to sneak down onto it. Bikes are not allowed on it but when has that stopped us before....it looks like the shoulder is nice and wide...and at least it would be a cross wind and not a head wind.
We continued through very rural grasslands and agricultural areas - did we mention the "undulations" and the headwind. We gained and lost the same 300ft in altitude every other mile, which is very disheartening.
We stopped for a longer break in Inece. We had tea at a small tea shop with a bunch of locals. The proprietor spoke a little English (he had worked in a seaside resort in Turkey and picked up some English, as well as Russian and German) and he was very excited to chat to us. We even gave us the tea on the house as well as giving us each a small bottle of cold lemonade for the road. This seems like a very hospitable land. He told us that Kirklareli was only 12km away now......
They are in the process of widening the road from Inece for the 12kms into Kirklareli. It wasn't a very active construction area but workmen cheered us on as we climbed another hill....
At the top there was an enormous Turkish flag flapping away in in the wind... and pointing directly towards us... Andrea pedaled ahead to get a photo of Bruce cycling past the flagpole to show how direct this headwind really was... All of this worked, except for the fact that the flag was that of the huge police station right out of town and as Bruce cycled by, a few of the officers started yelling and waving at us not to take photos. Photos already taken we cycled off down hill and into the city... Their hats weren't big enough for us to listen to their shouts.
We finally reached Kirklareli....it was not even 40miles for the day but it was much harder than the 66miles yesterday due to the headwind and the constant "undulations". We found a bike shop on our way into town but no luck with tube sizes.
We found a hotel with no real difficulty. Initially there were no rooms with a/c available, but when we went to leave the English speaking manageress miraculously appeared and found one for us at the same price. Funny how that works....
As we walked around town we found another bike shop. This time they had Presta/French valves..but the tube was still one size too small.....so close!
We had dinner in a local place again with a waiter who spoke a little English and was happy to practice what he knew on us. Hardly any tourists must come here as we really stand out. We are treated very well though and everyone is very hospitable.
Another day on this road tomorrow... hopefully it is a bit less "undulating"...
The World is Ours!
Wednesday August 14 - Day 49 - 40miles - 1949miles
After our 6.30am alarm went off, we went to get breakfast. We rapidly discovered that the "Breakfast Lounge" int he Saray Hotel was at the top of the hotel, so we had to climb three more floors of stairs to get ours. We were the first there and the bread hadn't arrived yet, so we ate cheese, tomatoes, olives and cucumbers all washed down with the ubiquitous cay (pronounced chai - turkish tea). After the grumbling about the stairs, the views were spectacular over the city and mosques. The bread finally arrived and we had some bread and honey to finish off our morning meal.
We loaded up and wheeled the bikes out into the hustle and bustle of a Turkish city. It wasn't too bad as long as you were vigilant of the chaos all around you! We stopped at a small shop to refill water bottles and were surprised for the first time in a long time to see two refrigerators completely filled with non-alcoholic beverages! We have finally reached a country where beer is more expensive than water! Amazing the things you get used to.
We paralleled the main road until we were forced onto it and we went down Route D100 for a few miles southwards until the turnoff for the D020 towards Kirklareli. During those few miles we saw two Burger Kings and a Dominos Pizza......Bulgaria we miss you already!
The road narrowed after the turnoff and soon started climbing and descending. While researching routes into Istanbul on a bike, this road was described as "undulating"...we would put it in slightly stronger terms - like morale crushingly hilly. Especially when you have a 15mph headwind nearly all day. You would go down a hill that was just steep enough so that gravity would overcome the wind forces and pick up a little speed. At the bottom, however the flat part before the climb started would be just long enough to suck the momentum from you before you were slowed to a crawl by the incline on the other side. Once that incline had been crested you could see three more of them from the summit waiting for you.
Again this was exacerbated by the wind. This road wouldn't have been nearly so bad if we didn't have that to contend with. However it still would have been a tough section of road.
We crossed the new motorway to Istanbul and were really tempted to sneak down onto it. Bikes are not allowed on it but when has that stopped us before....it looks like the shoulder is nice and wide...and at least it would be a cross wind and not a head wind.
We continued through very rural grasslands and agricultural areas - did we mention the "undulations" and the headwind. We gained and lost the same 300ft in altitude every other mile, which is very disheartening.
We stopped for a longer break in Inece. We had tea at a small tea shop with a bunch of locals. The proprietor spoke a little English (he had worked in a seaside resort in Turkey and picked up some English, as well as Russian and German) and he was very excited to chat to us. We even gave us the tea on the house as well as giving us each a small bottle of cold lemonade for the road. This seems like a very hospitable land. He told us that Kirklareli was only 12km away now......
They are in the process of widening the road from Inece for the 12kms into Kirklareli. It wasn't a very active construction area but workmen cheered us on as we climbed another hill....
At the top there was an enormous Turkish flag flapping away in in the wind... and pointing directly towards us... Andrea pedaled ahead to get a photo of Bruce cycling past the flagpole to show how direct this headwind really was... All of this worked, except for the fact that the flag was that of the huge police station right out of town and as Bruce cycled by, a few of the officers started yelling and waving at us not to take photos. Photos already taken we cycled off down hill and into the city... Their hats weren't big enough for us to listen to their shouts.
We finally reached Kirklareli....it was not even 40miles for the day but it was much harder than the 66miles yesterday due to the headwind and the constant "undulations". We found a bike shop on our way into town but no luck with tube sizes.
We found a hotel with no real difficulty. Initially there were no rooms with a/c available, but when we went to leave the English speaking manageress miraculously appeared and found one for us at the same price. Funny how that works....
As we walked around town we found another bike shop. This time they had Presta/French valves..but the tube was still one size too small.....so close!
We had dinner in a local place again with a waiter who spoke a little English and was happy to practice what he knew on us. Hardly any tourists must come here as we really stand out. We are treated very well though and everyone is very hospitable.
Another day on this road tomorrow... hopefully it is a bit less "undulating"...
The World is Ours!